The Zhupa Valley is possibly the most scenic ‘drive’ in Kosovo. You can start either at the Shtime end or from Prizren. The road is good asphalt and is never too busy, but passing places are limited. Coming from Prizren you will pass through the steep dramatic sides of the Lumbardhi Gorge, the Monastery of Archangels, the Hydro-electric Museum and the castle on your right. After a few kilometres, the picnickers from Prizren become fewer in number and the signs are in Serbian as you approach the Bosnian and Serbian villages. In 2003 Zhupa Valley was dubbed ‘returns valley’, owing to the number of successful returns of refugees. The villages are often high up and not easily accessible with stone houses and villagers subsisting on agriculture. It can be hard for the children to get to school in the winter. For sightseeing purposes, the valley can be divided into four areas – the initial sights of the monastery, the Sredska district with its churches up to Prevalac Mountain, the busier ski-resort villages of Brezovica and Štrpce, and then the Siriniça group of villages. We describe them below in the order in which they are reached.